Saturday, February 28, 2009

ALONG THE COAST FROM LAGOS TO LUZ: DAY 6

The next day we tackled another of the walks from our book. To do this we first took the local bus into the nearby town of Lagos (pronounced Lahgosh). This is the largest town in the Western region of the Algarve. Lagos became the administrative centre of the Algarve until it was very badly damaged in the earthquake of 1755, an earthquake that destroyed much of Southern Portugal. Re-established, it remains a working fishing port and market centre as well as a thriving resort.

The front at Lagos

To prove that at least one of us was actually there

An orange tree and Bird of Paradise flowers

Our first port of call was the local Regional Museum. According to the guide book this features, among other things, busts of the Roman Emperor Galiano, Visigothic stone coffins, jars containing misshapen foetuses(!), models of Algarvian chimneys, stuffed goats and some frightening surgical instruments. On the way out you pass into the Ingreja (Church) of Santo Antonio built in 1715. After I had taken a few photographs I was strongly reminded of the no photograph signs that I had not seen, by a rather severe attendant.

Inside the Igreja de Santo Antonio

Next stop was the local market where fishing was still clearly a dominant activity for the local population. Some fish we could recognize, many were strangers. They came in all shapes and sizes, friendly looking and ferocious.



Sardines and Horse Mackerel

Cuttlefish and Squid

Scabbard fish -these looked as if they were made of aluminium

A nice selection

A colourful abundance of vegetables and fruits

We had lunch, grilled sardines for one and grilled horse mackerel for the other. As the guidebook said, the Portuguese sardine in Portugal is much larger and more succulent than the version we all know from those in the tins we buy. Plenty of bones to challenge the diner.

We then set off to follow the coastline back to Luz. These photographs are fairly typical of the more rugged cliffs that dominate the Western region of the Algarve.





You can get to some grottos if you climb down about a million steps





The beach at Porto de Mos, the largest cove West of Lagos

The town of Luz from the cliffs above

LUZ AND A CIRCULAR WALK FROM FIGUERA: DAY 7

We started the day in Luz along the sea front.

The sea front at Luz


Luz was a very pleasant moderately sized town which had been a busy fishing village in earlier times. Many of the old fishing villages have switched their interests to tourism. Half the population are outsiders who have bought properties there, mainly the British. There was evidence of the Romans and we looked over some diggings of a Roman bath, behind the wall.

At the centre of the town was the church interestingly shared by the Roman Catholics and the expat Anglicans. It was in the typical style of the country, white and yellow

The church at Luz



We then set off the the West to the small town of Figuera where we started out on a long walk towards the coast. The route wandered around through two small villages and along semi-overgrown tracks but we didn't get too lost en route. There were two coves on the way and one had a pleasant restaurant for a morning break.



As was always the case there were beautiful flowers everywhere.


There were may isolated properties on the way and the last photograph shows a typical residence. In the background you can see some wind turbines. There were many of these on top of many of the surrounding hills.




MONCHIQUE AND THE CLIMB OF PICOTA: DAY 8

We haven't said much about the weather to date. We started off in coolish temperatures but as the first week went by it became warmer and more settled. There was the windy day at Cape St. Vincent but by the end of the week the winds were calm and we were beginning to enjoy the sun more and more. The second half of the week saw the weather move from warm to hot and we had blue skies for the rest of our stay. We had been watching the weather forecasts carefully and there was a large high pressure region building out in the Atlantic. As a result we became more adventurous and we traveled inland into the area of Monchique which sits between some 3,000 ft hills. In clear weather the walks book said we would be able to see all along the coastline.

We chose the walk to the top of Picota.

On the way there we took a small diversion to see a new Formula 1 capable race track that had recently been built in the foothills. A very large amount of money had been spent to set this up and the approach roads were worth seeing on their own. To date the track had attracted many of the Formula 1 teams for testing on February and, although they have yet to get the circus to come for an actual race, there were many other events on the calendar.

The whole set up was very impressive. At the time we arrived there were a bunch of motorcycles speeding around the track. There was a great deal of spectator accommodation including a very long grandstand along the main straight. We couldn't get in but got a good idea from the outside looking in.

The main grandstand at the new Portimeo race track

Next stop was the town of Monchique. There was a sausage festival on at the time and after parking the car in a tiny street, rather like the one in the photograph


we stopped for the usual morning coffee break.


Anyone you know?


Then we started our walk to Picota passing though the marquee where the festival was being held. There were sausages of all shapes and sizes, many looking to have a lot of blood in them.






There were plenty of other interesting things for sale including some lovely looking pastries.


and the local village band was there to entertain the crowd.


Our walk took us downhill at first which we weren't too impressed about as we were trying to climb up to the top of Picota. The road ran through a cork oak forest. Cork is still an important product for the wine industry.


There were many small properties with their land in terraces.


and everywhere we went we saw oranges in abundance and many lemon trees loaded with fruit.


We passed a cork pile awaiting collection. The cork is stripped off to about twelve feet and it regrows back in eight to ten years.





A cork tree stripped of the outer cork layer

Almond blossom - Algarve snow


A Bread Oven

The town of Monchique

The view from the top showing the coast in the background

The grandstand at the Portimeo track

Further proof one of us was really there

Coming down from the peak at Picota

We made it down after what was quite a strenuous day in hot weather. The sun stayed with us for the rest of the trip.

FROM BURGAU TO SALEMA ALONG THE COAST: Day 9

On our last day staying at Luz we filled in the one piece of coastline we had left out earlier, from Burgau to Salema.

The town of Burgau

The walk was the usual up and down as we passed by one cove after another.

Burgau is now in the background.

This was typical coast line walking country

We didn't quite make the finish as we came to a river which we didn't want to ford, so we took a break and retraced our steps back.

Luz proved to be an excellent choice to stay as the town was interesting and we could get out to some really interesting coast and country but the time had come to pack up and move further East to our next apartment at Semarais near Carvorieo.